Claws & Wings: A Run Through Boavista

Est.reading time: 4 min

Porto's centre of the universe

If you look up at the towering monument in the center of the Boavista roundabout, regarded as the city centre, you might think you’ve stumbled into a literal interpretation of a Lisbon football derby.  At the very top, a massive lion is busy pinning down a rather distressed eagle. 

For those familiar with Portuguese football symbols (or soccer, if you prefer), it looks like SportingCP finally getting the upper hand over Benfica. But let’s be honest: we’re in Porto. Why would we build a 45-meter tall tribute to two teams from the capital that are—historically speaking— irrelevant to our northern soul? ​

Rest assured, that's not about football; it’s a much older, much braver story...

A meaningful mayhem

The chaotic energy of the top statue of the monument matches the rush-hour traffic circling beneath it. But, if you look down from the "mascot fight", you’ll find the real drama etched in metal figures around the base. 

This monument commemorates the Peninsular War, where the British troops --here represented by a lion-- and the Portuguese teamed up to show Napoleon’s eagle the exit door. You’ll see soldiers, cannons, and a reference to the 1809 "Ponte das Barcas" disaster, where thousands perished in the Douro River while fleeing the French invasion, after a bridge standing on barges, collapsed. 

It’s a clear reminder that while we today struggle with the incline of a hill during a run, our ancestors were busy navigating musket fire and collapsing bridges.

The roundabout's surroundings

Step back a bit (watch out for the traffic!) and you’ll notice the incredible contrast of your surroundings. A few dozen meters away stands the music hall Casa da Música, looking like a giant diamond that crash-landed in the 21st century, like a meteorite - we've got a couple of stories about that one, too! 

This roundabout is the true pivot of the city. From here, the Avenida da Boavista stretches out in a five-kilometer straight line, all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, a path that promises the runner in you the reward of a salty sea breeze, if your lungs can handle the distance.

Dutch runners, Jesper and Mary. Backdrop: the music hall Casa da Musica

To be precise: it's not Boavista, nor roundabout

Now, for a bit of local pedantry: if you want to sound like a true Porto native, call it "Rotunda da Boavista". However, if you want to be technically correct (and slightly annoying at parties), call it "Mouzinho de Albuquerque" square. It was named after a 19th century fierce Lieutenant Colonel, Joaquim Mouzinho de Albuquerque, that most living people in Porto never heard of. 

 And yes: despite being one of the busiest circular intersections in the country, it is officially called a "Square.", not a roundabout. ​

As for the name 'Boavista', it’s a literal relic of simpler times. Long before the concrete and the cars arrived, this area was nothing but open fields with a "Good View" (Boa Vista) of the horizon. Today, the view mostly consists of buses and confused tourists, but the name stuck.

Before a roundabout was even needed

Believe it or not, this place has seen faster transformations than a runner’s heart rate during a sprint. In the past, when petrol engine cars were not yet around, this very spot hosted a grand bullring (Real Coliseu Portuense; 1889 to 1898) and even a train station (Estação da Boavista; 1875 to 2001). 

Left: Steam train departing from Boavista's train station (photo taken in the 1970's).
Right: a wall painting depicting the front entrance of a long gone bullfighting ring that existed in Boavista in late 1800's.

Something that never changes

When you join a guided run with Porto Running Tours,  it's never just a workout; it’s an outdoor fun history lesson. We turn your morning jog into a trip through time, proving that in Porto, every kilometer covered is a story told.

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