As a running tour guide in Porto, I’ve spent countless kilometers weaving through the streets of this beautiful city, sharing stories of its rich history and, of course, some about its beer.
One of my favorite routes is the Signature Tour - Local Beer where I take fellow runners on a journey through Porto’s connection to one of its most iconic creations: Super Bock. Let me take you on a quick virtual jog through time:
Clare, in 2020, as we ran past Super Bock Arena at 8.00AM. (this was a couple of days before total lockdown).
Starting Line, 1890's: Porto’s Brewing Beginnings in Cedofeita
We often start our run in Cedofeita, Porto’s present art district. It’s here that the story of the Super Bock Group begins. Back in the late 19th century, a brewing facility was established here under the name CUFP (Companhia União Fabril Portuense). Imagine the smell of hops and barley wafting through the cobblestone streets as early brewers perfected their craft.
As we jog through Cedofeita, I love pointing out the spots that would have been integral to this burgeoning industry—places where beer production was still small-scale, meant to supply the local market.
It was during these early years that the beer brand, Super Bock's predecessor, Cristal, was born. This crisp, pilsener light beer became a favorite of Porto’s locals long before Super Bock made its debut. The name Cristal was inspired by the proximity of a grand exhibition hall that could be seen from the factory: the Crystal Palace (Palácio de Cristal)
Aiming too high or a wrong step?
The Leão factory, located at the lower end of Restauração Street, was the company's most ephemeral production plant and aimed to raise the volume of production of Cristal beer by thousands of litres . Before the start of production of Cristal beer – Super Bock’s ‘older’ sister brand – the plant primarily produced ice for the fishing industry.
However, as a consequence of the challenges posed by World War I, it closed after just two years. A victim of circumstances.
Sodas, beer and ice ('bebidas gazosas e gelo') could be read on the facade of the brand new 'Leão' factory in this photo, shot over 110 years ago. This production plant was inaugurated in November 1914
The building still exists, with its front now painted yellow and ground floor covered in blue tiles. We frequently run up that street (Restauração), being a direct route between the city historic centre and the Douro river bank.
Michael cruising past the old Super Bock production plant 'fabrica do Leão', running up the occasionally busy street 'rua da Restauração'
During the roaring twenties, a legend was born.
Super Bock, born in 1927, was different from Cristal—bolder, with a flavor that quickly gained a loyal following. By the mid-20th century, the factory was producing an impressive 3 million liters annually.
Super Bock's trade mark certificate, issued November 1927. Credits: Super Bock group
Portugal witnessed the beer business expansion during the 1920's, with a growing internal market (which was by tradition a wine-only market) and also some modernization, including distribution:
The first diesel truck fleet for beer delivery was purchased in the 1920's, to replace animal traction. Source: Super Bock Group
World War 2: tough times.
Running uphill toward the historic areas, I talk about how the brewing industry survived through the turbulence of the World Wars. World War I brought raw material shortages, and World War II made things even tougher with rationing and trade restrictions. Imagine trying to brew beer without enough barley or hops!
But the brewers of Porto were resilient. They sourced ingredients locally and refined their techniques to keep the beer flowing, even if production was limited. Those tough times shaped the future of Super Bock, proving its ability to endure and adapt.
In front of Beer house 'Capa Negra' sits an old copper brewing kettle, from the nearby (no longer existing) production plant in Julio Dinis street
The spring that provided water for the Julio Dinis street's factory (Super Bock's last facility in Porto's city centre) stills exists. The abundance of water even nowadays, requires constant pumping from under the residential building that replaced the old production plant.
Present time, huge numbers.
Super Bock group's mega factory now sits in Leça do Balio, in the outskirts of Porto.
Today, it’s a state-of-the-art facility producing over 300 million litres of beer a year, but it still holds the spirit of its early days. This mix of tradition and innovation is what makes Super Bock such a beloved name, not just in Portugal but around the world (blame it on the Portuguese small migrant communities scattered all over the world).
Super Bock remains a very generous patron for sports and culture in Portugal, sponsoring all from pop music festivals to football clubs, but also supporting the building and renovation of cultural infrastructures like Super Bock Arena, Casa da Musica or Pavilhão da Água.
Even street artists are summoned to decorate the factory itself, from time to time: Finishing strong: A toast to the past and future.
We usually wrap up our beer running tour in the Letraria beer garden, where Porto’s craft beer culture thrives. I usually recommend that my runners try one of their long list of craft local beers but we can also been seen sipping on a Super Bock or a Cristal, in a local cafe, instead.
It’s the perfect way to celebrate not just the miles we’ve covered, but the legacy of a beer that’s been part of Porto’s story for over a century. When I run these routes, I’m reminded that beer, like running, is about connection—people coming together, sharing stories, and celebrating life. So whether you’re a history buff, a beer lover, or just someone who loves a good jog, Porto’s beer history is a story worth exploring. And believe me, nothing tastes better than the occasional Super Bock + Francesinha combo for lunch after a long morning run through the city that made it famous! See you on the Porto streets —and at the beer house afterward!
A 'mind the holes' notice on a Super Bock delivery truck, as a reminder that we should never run the risk of wasting quality beer :)
Share this blog post - and a post-run beer with your friends:
PS: The local lingo for draught beer is 'Fino, por favor.' So, brush up on your Portuñol if you want to impress the bartender ;)
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Sérgio é o fundador da Porto Running Tours, corre regularmente desde 1999 e desde 2015 que guia visitas em corrida na Invicta enquanto revela algumas das suas mais fascinantes histórias. Categories
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November 2024
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